NOS 1998 Patek Philippe 5015R

£19,500.00

DETAILS

Presented in “new old stock” condition, this example remains unworn with its original protective wax seal still intact on its caseback. Accompanied by its original certificate from 1998, paperwork and booklets, this example is a collector’s dream. The stunning original white porcelain dial with Arabic numerals as documented on the paperwork, with original “spade” hands to compliment. It features the original brown Patek Philippe leather strap and rose gold pin buckle. A stunning 35.5mm diameter case measuring 10mm thick, this elegant ref. 5015R Officer’s Watch merges the incredible craftmanship and watchmaking prowess we have come to expect from Patek Philippe in a fittingly classical sized timepiece that successfully draws from the period in which it was inspired. A wonderfully rare watch presented in even rarer “new old stock” condition, this is a gorgeous timepiece that we are incredibly proud to offer.

BRAND

Patek Philippe

MODEL

Officers’ Moonphase Power Reserve

YEAR

1998

REFERENCE

5015R

STORY BEHIND

Patek Philippe History

Founded in 1839 by Antoine Norbert de Patek and François Czapek, Patek Philippe began life as Patek, Czapek & Cie, whereby it existed until 1845 until it was broken up as a result of a disagreement between the two founders. Joined by French watchmaker Adrien Philippe, Antoine Patek renamed the company Patek & Cie on May 15th, 1845. Under its new leadership, Patek Philippe continued to evolve as a watchmaker, offering some of the finest timepieces the world had seen. With royal customers like Queen Victoria and Countess Koscowicz of Hungary in the mid-1800s, Patek Philippe’s products had found their way to the perfect audience. From there, Patek Philippe continued to evolve well into the 20th century (even following a company restructuring) and become known as the apex of Swiss watchmaking.

Today, Patek Philippe’s reputation precedes them as they are well-established as one of the best watchmakers on Earth, in more ways than one. While some brands specialise in particular complications, designs and uses, Patek Philippe found their niche in supplying a broad range of watches that were, to be frank, better than everyone else’s. Continuing that very same vein, Patek today is one of the brands that continue to outperform others in desirability, brand equity and watchmaking prowess.

In 1993, Patek Philippe was taken under the control of Philippe Stern as President of the company. Under his vision Patek has continued with their traditional approach to watchmaking, remaining undeterred by market trends, the desires of the masses and the appeal of quick short-term revenue generation. A busy decade by all accounts, the ’90s saw Patek introduce several new models such as the Aquanaut and Twenty-4. Alongside arising competition from brands like Lange & Söhne and under Philippe Stern’s direction, Patek began to vertically integrate their manufacturing processes to ensure the quality of its timepieces. A significant move at the time, this eradicated Patek’s reliance on third-party suppliers and allowed them to remain ahead of the curve as far as what their competition was doing.

The Officer’s Watch

An iconic piece of watchmaking history, the Officer’s Watch is a style of timepiece that harks back to the origins of the humble wristwatch as we know it. Largely conceived by soldiers on the front-line in WWI, wristwatches were merely pocket watches adapted to be worn on the wrist for ease of use during combat. Before WWI, wristwatches were very feminine pieces of jewellery that served little function. After WWI, the public’s perception of wristwatches changed, and they experienced ballooning popularity. With that, Patek and several other brands began to create wristwatches for all sorts of occasions and uses. In 1932, Patek created the Calatrava ref. 96 as a way of bolstering revenues during the Great Depression.

Following the Calatrava’s success, Patek began to experiment with its design and create new forms of Calatrava with new dials, case shapes and lug designs. One style of watch they always omitted was a military watch. In 1989, this changed as they released a limited-edition ‘Officer’s Watch’ to celebrate their 150th anniversary – the ref. 3960. This model proved rather popular with scrolled lugs, a sizeable onion-style crown, and matching Breguet numerals and hands sitting atop a clean white dial. Featuring a hinged caseback calling to mind the classic pocket watches that predated the utilitarian military wristwatch, these Officer Watches became an instant classic thanks to their elegant design and historical aesthetic.

The Ref. 5015R

Released in 1994 and produced until 1999, the ref. 5015R is an exceptionally rare example of a Patek Philippe Calatrava Officer’s Watch. It even has the title of being the first Patek moon phase timepiece that does not feature a perpetual calendar. With 3000 units made across a selection of metals, only 500 examples exist in rose gold. Featuring an incredible 36mm 18kt rose gold case construction with its signature sapphire crystal exhibition hinged-caseback, hobnail stepped bezel, and iconic scrolled lugs with matching 18kt rose gold buckle, this ref. 5015R oozes sophistication from the moment you set your eyes on it.

Continuing the same level of intricate detail, the ref. 5015R features a stunning white enamel dial with black painted radial Arabic numerals, a black oxidised gold spade handset, and a railway-style minute track found along its periphery. With a running sub-seconds dial at 4 o’clock, a moon phase aperture at 7 o’clock and a semi-circular 48-hour power reserve indicator at 10 o’clock, the 5015R’s asymmetrical dial layout is immediately reminiscent of the modern Nautilus ref. 5712.

Calibre 240-152

Powered by the self-winding cal. 240-152 movement, the ref. 5015R’s features, rather fittingly, a visual spectacle behind its exhibition caseback. Given the importance of the hinged caseback to the ref. 5015R’s aesthetic, it was in the stars that it featured a beautiful movement. Rhodium-plated throughout with fausses côtes embellishment, the cal. 240-152 comes stamped with the Seal of Geneva, signifying its quality and craftsmanship. Featuring 29 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, an impressive shock absorption system, a self-compensating free-sprung flat balance spring, a solid 22K gold micro-rotor, and Patek’s patented Gyromax balance that adjusts for cold, heat, isochronism, and five positions, the cal. 240-152 is a technically astute movement deserving of the ref. 5015’s esteem, to say the very least.